Guide to caring for stick insects
Stick insects (Phasmatodea) are a fascinating order of insects that have amazed nature enthusiasts and researchers for centuries. Their remarkable ability to mimic branches and leaves as a natural camouflage has made them masters of concealment and survival in their natural environments. Here, we will provide a brief guide to the care and maintenance of the most common of these unique insects.
Background
Stick insects have been studied since antiquity, when their camouflage technique fascinated natural historians. Their ability to blend into their surroundings has given them an evolutionary edge, leading to their widespread distribution across many continents. Today, they are found in many tropical and subtropical regions, including Asia, Australia, Africa, and South America. A few species are even found in temperate climates.
Habitats in Nature: Most species live in dense forest areas, where their camouflage helps them avoid predators such as birds and reptiles. They thrive especially in areas with rich vegetation, where they can find shelter and food. Here, they have adapted with a rich variety of camouflage. The simplest stick insects look like a small withered twig. However, there are also stick insects that imitate thorny branches (for example, the Giant Prickly Stick Insect) and even some that look like actual leaves (leaf insects).

The Smallest and Largest Species
The Phasmatodea order comprises about 3,000 different species that vary greatly in size and appearance.
- The Smallest Species: The smallest known species is Timema cristinae, which only reaches about 1.5 centimeters in length. This small species lives primarily in North America's coastal scrubland and has a short, more compact body compared to other stick insects.
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The Largest Species: On the other hand, we have Phobaeticus chani, also known as Chan's Megastick, which can reach a length of over 60 centimeters if you include its extended legs. This impressive species originates from Borneo and is a true testament to how extreme evolutionary adaptations can be.
The Terrarium
When keeping stick insects as pets, it is important to recreate their natural environment as accurately as possible. Their terrarium should therefore be at least three times as tall as the insect's length, as they need space to hang freely, especially when molting. A tall, well-ventilated container with a humid microclimate is optimal. The substrate can advantageously be filled with terrarium soil, where you can then add small organisms that help keep it clean (see the article on the bioactive terrarium).
Terrarium Setup: To provide your stick insects with a safe and stimulating environment, you can decorate the terrarium with natural branches and live plants. The branches ensure that the stick insects have something to climb on and molt from. The plants look nice and help to increase humidity. Good terrarium plants to keep with stick insects include creeping fig, oakleaf creeping fig, maidenhair vine, as well as moss.

Humidity and Temperature
Humidity is a crucial factor for stick insects, and most species require a relative humidity of 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the terrarium a couple of times a week with a plant mister. This will also give the stick insects the opportunity to drink the droplets that settle around the enclosure. Use demineralized water if possible, as this avoids lime scale on the glass and plants.
Temperature: Most species prefer temperatures between 20-25 °C, which means that a normal indoor climate is usually sufficient. If necessary, you can use a heat mat to raise the temperature, but be careful not to overheat the terrarium. For many species, the temperature will affect how quickly the animals develop. At lower temperatures, the animals will live a little longer (but develop more slowly).
Food
Stick insects feed on the leaves of a variety of plants. The most common food sources include blackberry leaves, oak leaves, lilac, raspberry leaves, rose leaves, and eucalyptus. Ensure that the leaves are free from pesticides, and always wash them thoroughly before offering them to your insects. Feel free to experiment to see which leaves work best. In winter, it can be a challenge to find food/leaves. In mild winters, blackberry leaves may remain green throughout the winter. Alternatively, you can harvest leaves and put them in the freezer to use during the winter. However, they do not stay fresh for very long. Another option is to plant wintergreen (Gaultheria shallon or other Gaultheria species), as they are evergreen. Many florists also carry them.
To keep the leaves fresh for as long as possible, you can take a jam jar. Drill a couple of holes in the lid, fill the jar with water, and stick the stems into the holes.

Feeding Routine: Replace the leaves regularly so they always have fresh and succulent food. Some species can be picky, so it is important to find out what your specific species prefers.
Handling and Interaction
Although stick insects can be handled, it must be done carefully. Their bodies are delicate. When you lift them, do so slowly and gently, and let them climb onto your hand at their own pace. It is not uncommon for a stick insect to be missing a leg or an antenna (this can happen during molting or by accident). They will, however, slowly grow back each time the animal molts.
Be aware: Many species will simply freeze or drop to the ground if they feel threatened, so avoid sudden movements that might scare them. Some species can even secrete a small substance that smells unpleasant.
Molting
Stick insects molt several times during their lives. This is how they grow larger. This process is called ecdysis, and it is important that they have high humidity in the terrarium to make the molt easier. During a molt, they often hang from a branch, and it is crucial not to disturb them at this time. After the molt, an empty "copy" of the animal will usually be left behind. It is not uncommon for the old skin (exuvia) to be eaten to utilize as many nutrients and minerals as possible.
Aftercare: Keep an eye out to ensure they have shed all their skin and that there are no remnants that could hinder their movement. If problems are observed, you can try raising the humidity further or, in extreme cases, try removing the remnants with tweezers (though this is not advised).
Reproduction
Many species of stick insects can reproduce both sexually and asexually (parthenogenesis), which means that females can lay eggs without fertilization from a male. In those cases, the offspring will be exact copies (clones) of the mother. Many of the species kept in captivity reproduce exclusively parthenogenetically (only females), and for many species, there are no males left in the wild at all.

The eggs often resemble small seeds or droppings and can therefore be difficult to spot. Many species also flick their abdomen when the egg is laid to throw them as far away as possible. Eggs of stick insects can take several months (up to years) to hatch, depending on the species and environmental conditions. Generally, fertilized eggs are quicker to hatch than unfertilized ones. The eggs are kept in the same way as the adults (though preferably slightly drier). A fun detail is that newly hatched nymphs often do not look like adult stick insects at all. As tiny hatchlings, they usually mimic small ants or scorpions. This disappears, however, after the first few molts.
Conclusion
Stick insects are excellent pets for children, beginners, and enthusiasts alike. They are easy to feed, do not require much space, and you can easily go on vacation without worrying about whether they will survive. Furthermore, they are beautiful, wonderful, and interesting animals that can provide a wealth of learning and good experiences.
- Enjoy!